Teaching Inquiries

Conquering Construction

I love sewing garments. One of the best things I ever did for my garment sewing was to wean myself off pattern instructions. In this lecture, I teach you what I taught myself: how to logically think through the basic construction steps. Doing this enables you to take control of your projects, which in turn allows you to sew with more confidence and enjoyment.

Using a variety of garments I've made as examples, I also discuss topics such as how I make decisions about lining to the edge versus hanging a lining from a facing, when and why I choose handwork over machine sewing, and how I experiment with trims and embellishments to achieve the resutls I want.

Divine Details

Garment details are often what catch our eye. If you’re clothes shopping with a friend, you probably don’t hold up a blouse and say, “Hey, look at this perfectly plain shirt!” Rather, it’s that little extra something that draws you in. This might be a clever neckline treatment on a t-shirt, fabulous buttons on a jacket, or a lace detail at the hem of a skirt.

In this lecture, I treat you to a fun presentation showcasing garments from my own wardrobe. From details using store-bought trims, to interesting fabric combinations, to details created from fabric, I explain how I came up with my ideas and what makes each detail “work.” Get ready to be inspired, because the comment I hear most often after this presentation is: “I can’t wait to go home and sew!”

The Keystone of Successful Garments: Pairing Garment Style and Fabric

When you pair the right garment style with the right fabric, something magical happens. The garment just seems to sing. When the pairing is not quite right, the garment might work okay, but there's just something missing. And when the pairing is wrong, the garment often looks awkward and falls flat.

Using garments I've made as examples throughout the lecture and discussion, we explore how to get a successful pairing for every garment. I first discuss how to assess fabric and put it into one of two general silhouette categories, as well as what to consider when a fabric doesn't fall neatly into one of these two categories. We also explore the differences between starting with the fabric first (and then selecting a pattern or garment style) and starting with a pattern or garment style first (and then selecting a fabric). Other topics include how to select fabric on your own rather than relying on pattern envelope suggestions; what "mirror play" tells you and why it's so important; and how to learn from both "hits" and "misses."

Making the Most of Patterns that Fit

As most people who sew garments know, getting a comfortable and flattering fit is a process that takes time. Therefore, once I develop a well-fitting garment - what I call a master pattern - I want to make good use of it.

In this lecture and trunk show, I show you that it's easy to repeatedly use the same pattern yet give each garment its own flavor and personality. This can be through fabric choice and embellishment. But it can also be achieved by changing elements such as necklines, sleeves, collars, cuffs, and hemlines. I also discuss changing the garment opening, creating interesting seam lines, and turning garments such as a blouse into a dress.

Structure, Support & Style

One of the hallmarks of a beautiful garment, no matter how casual or dressy, is that it has just the right amount of structure and support. But what is the "right" amount? It depends on three factors: the fabric, the garment style, and the type of clothing you like to wear.

Using garments I've made, I share with you my thinking and decision-making process as I discuss the different factors I consider. To gain a deeper understanding of the process, the garments we discuss include a wide range of fabrics, styles, details, and embellishments. We look at supporting fabric throughout the entire garment as well as structuring garment components. And I include specific information about interfacing products and underlining fabrics.

The Art of the Dart

As sewers, most of us are accustomed to seeing darts in garments – they’re in skirts or pants to fit the waist, or can be used in a bodice to fit the bust. But once you understand the nuances of what a dart does and what you can make it achieve, you’ll never take darts for granted again. In this class you'll learn both the basics and the intricacies of darts, from the anatomy and function of a dart to utilizing darts when fitting to flatter and proportion the figure.

This class is suitable for anyone with some sewing experience. It provides less experienced sewers with a basic understanding of darts; and it gives more experienced sewers nuanced information about darts.

Best-ify Yourself

In this class, we explore how to make great garment choices to flatter every shape and size figure. Taking into consideration your personality and life style, and using a simple photo of yourself as a croquis on which you sketch designs, you'll learn how to audition different garments and design elements before you invest your time sewing. I provide many examples of small changes that transform a “doesn’t work” garment into a flattering one.

Developing Flattering Necklines

Changing the position and shape of a neckline has the potential to make a so-so garment much more flattering on your figure. The object is to create a pleasing visual proportion between the garment neckline and the bust, upper torso, neck, and face. I share with you the key things I look for when developing a flattering neckline. Then students work in teams or small groups, to practice what they’ve learned. Students leave with 2 to 5 flattering necklines that they can then apply to garments of all types (t-shirts, simple shell blouses, shirts, dresses, jackets, and more).

Developing Roll Collars

One of the simplest collars to sew - a roll collar - can frame your face beautifully and add that perfect finishing touch to a blouse or jacket. There are countless roll collar possibilities, from the size and shape of the collar to whether the collar is symmetrical, asymmetrical, and even overlapping. In this class, I show you how easy it is to draft a roll collar pattern. I also tell you what to do to make the collar stand up higher or lay down flatter. And I share lots of garment examples to get your creative juices flowing!

Essential Handstitches

Hand stitches can help make your garments look terrific and function better when used in the right situations. In this enlightening class, I discuss five different types of hand stitches: catch stitch (and hidden catch stitch); slip stitch; fell stitch; back stitch; and basting stitch. I show you examples of garments where each hand stitch is used and give you the opportunity to practice each one, so that you are ready with beautiful hand stitching skills for your next garment! Please bring a pair of small scissors, and I provide a class kit with everything else that you need.

The Inter-relationship Between Fit and Patternmaking

Fit and patternmaking are so closely linked, it's just about impossible to explore one subject without bringing the other topic into the discussion. For example, any change to the fit of a garment is going to require some sort of pattern adjustment if you want to be able to reproduce the garment. And pattern adjustments are much more successful if you take into consideration the figure that will be wearing the garment.

In this class, I teach the basics of patternmaking and help you build your confidence with these skills so that you can pursue a better fitting garment as well as your own design ideas. I cover:

• Blending seam lines
• Truing pattern seams
• Truing dart legs
• Making length and width adjustments
• Transferring fitting changes from a test garment to a pattern
• Tips and tricks that I use to prevent confusion and ensure success

Leveraging Your Tried and True Patterns

Is it really worth spending time to fit a tried-and-true blouse pattern? You bet it is! Whether your build is petite, average, full-figured, or plus-sized, you can create many styles with the same great fit. In this class, I share how to (1) use a tried-and-true pattern to modify another pattern, and (2) adapt a tried-and-true pattern when you see a garment style you like. I include many specifics and examples.

The Magic of Underlining

Underlining a fashion fabric can add a subtle aura of quality, sophistication, and elegance to many garments. Plus, it will reduce the amount your garment wrinkles, make your garment last longer, and hide hand hem stitches. Using underlined garments I have made as examples, I discuss how to decide if a garment would benefit from underlined fashion fabric, what fabrics work well as underlining fabric, and why hand basting is more effective than machine basting. Then, you have the chance to practice underlining a half-scale darted bodice front, while I demonstrate each step of the process. All materials are supplied in your class kit – all you need to bring is a pair of scissors to clip thread.

Nuances of Bust Fitting

Bust fitting poses problems for both large-busted and small-busted gals. In this info-packed lecture, we start with discussing how to acheive the appropriate bodice circumference and eliminate drag lines. Then we get into the subtleties: appropriate dart intake, dart point placement, and dart angle; princess seam type and placement; multiple darts, and darts with princess seams. In addition to the lecture, I ask for volunteers so I can demonstrate creating a flattering fit through the bust.

Pants Fitting Concepts

Have you ever been delighted by how quickly you were able to sew a pair of pants, but when you put them on they didn't look flattering or feel comfortable? For many people, getting pants to fit is a challenge. In this class, I discuss pants fitting from both a theoretical and a practical point of view. I explain basic concepts such as the relationship between body mass (the shape of your lower torso) and the three-dimensional space pants create. I discuss the ten most common pants fitting problems using volunteers from the class. I also provide each participant an informative hand-out, which has images of what these problems look like when a muslin is on the body, as well as schematic illustrations of the pattern adjustments you need to make to solve the fitting issue, all of which will help you get your pants fitting beautifully!

Playing with Color & Texture

There’s a subtle difference between garments that look like separates and garments that look complete and cohesive on their own. The secret lies in the way fabrics are paired or combined. Using garments from my own wardrobe, I explain my thought process when making my fabric decisions. Then, you have plenty of time to develop and hone your own skills. Using hundreds of fabric swatches that I provide, you get to work your way through a series of fun fabric exercises that I developed to train your eye. If you don’t know what to do with a piece of fabric you own, please feel free to bring it to class!

Set-in Sleeves: Understanding the Basics

From fitting to sewing, I share with you everything you’ve ever wanted to know about set-in sleeves. I demonstrate fitting set-in sleeves, and discuss the role that cap height plays in eliminating drag lines. No matter what your bicep size is, I show you how to change any set-in sleeve pattern to accommodate your bicep circumference without compromising a beautiful fit. To top things off, I demonstrate how to get perfect results when sewing a set-sleeve.

Set-in Sleeves: Innovative Approaches for Fit and Comfort

Set-in sleeves are so common, yet they pose so many fitting and pattern issues. In this class, I lay the groundwork by discussing common fitting issues; the critical relationship between the sleeve cap length and the armhole opening; and the compromises that popular adjustments yield. I then offer solutions, including a “magic” two-piece sleeve as well as some of my innovative sleeve designs, all of which accommodate the bicep nicely while fitting into the armhole smoothly.

Take Control of Your Patterns with 5 Easy Patternmaking Techniques

Many sewing enthusiasts don’t want to learn in-depth patternmaking, but they do appreciate an accurate and clean pattern. Whether you’re a beginner or veteran sewer, it’s easy to take control of your patterns, starting with these five easy techniques that I cover in this class: (1) using rulers; (2) walking seam lines; (3) truing dart legs; (4) truing difficult intersecting seams; and (5) the key to it all: thinking “seam lines.”

Three-Dimensional Thinking = Better Fitting

I have been asked several times: What’s the most perplexing fitting problem you’ve encountered? A number of examples came to mind, but as I thought about which to choose, I realized they all boiled down to the same conundrum: our bodies are 3-dimensional while patterns and fabric are 2-dimensional. In this class, we investigate this core conundrum, and we explore (a) utilizing darts and seams to create 3-dimensionality, and (b) training your mind to think 3-dimensionally. The result: faster, more accurate, and more creative fitting of the bust, buttocks, biceps, shoulder blades and other rounded and curvy parts of the body.

Tips for Fitting Yourself

Fitting yourself with a muslin can be difficult, since any movements you make impact where the fabric falls on your body. But with a little know-how, it is indeed possible to fit yourself! I've done my own fitting for over twenty years and have learned a great deal about how to make the process easier. In this class, I share with you and demonstrate essential tips and tricks that will enable you to fit yourself: from mirror placement, to pinning, to how to take and use photos to help make adjustments, and much more!

To Line or Not to Line?

Lining a garment can increase its comfort and longevity, but not all garments need to be lined. In this class, you learn how to decide whether or not to line a garment, and whether it should be dry cleaned or laundered. Everyone receives a class kit that has samples of 10 lining fabrics, and I discuss the pros and cons of each. I also show you various examples of lined garments in a trunk show.

What Does This Fabric Want to Be?

Selecting an appropriate style of garment for a particular fabric is the first step to a successful garment. In this class, I first discuss basic garment silhouettes and what types of fabric are appropriate. And I show you ways to assess if your fabric will do what you want it to do. Then, through a number of exercises that the whole class participates in, I help you build your skills so you, too, can choose a garment style that will work well but isn’t boring. Feel free to bring to class a couple of fabrics and patterns that you’d like help with!