Bibliography
Sarah has written countless resources on sewing, patternmaking, fitting, and design over the years in an effort to get much-needed information to fellow sewers. In addition to her books, she has contributed numerous articles, garments, and answers to readers' questions for a number of publications including THREADS magazine, Vogue Patterns Magazine, SewNews, Cranston Village, the ASDP newsletter Perspectives, and the HSA newsletter Sew-lutions. Links to online versions and adaptations have been provided where possible.
“From Muslin to Pattern.” Threads January 2021, Number 212. Pin a test garment to fit, then learn to accurately adjust the tissue.
“Fitting a Small Bust.” Threads November 2020, Number 211. Work from a muslin or pattern to reduce width and length.
“Question and Answer.” Threads March 2020, Number 207. Where to place a grain-line on pants?
“Add a Yoke for Fit.” Threads January 2020, Number 206. Redesign a shirt back for shape and style.
“10 Patternwork Skills.” Threads January 2019, Number 200. Key refinements for accurate sewing.
“The Knit Fabric Challenge.” Threads July 2018, Number 197. Most elegant interpretation.
First Time Garment Fitting: The Absolute Beginner's Guide. Minneapolis: Creative Publishing International, 2018. A concise introduction to garment fitting that provides all the basics using just a few examples.
"Improved Pants Fitting." Threads March 2018, Number 195. Reference lines tell you where and how to adjust the crotch curve.
"Set-in Sleeve Solutions." Threads September 2017, Number 192. Innovative adjustments refine the fit and style.
"How to Drape Bust Darts." Threads November 2016, Number 187. For a personalized fit, shape fabric on body.
"Design a Rolled Collar." Threads January 2016, Number 182. Cover article. Make a basic pattern, then revise it for new styles.
"Question and Answer." Threads November 2015, Number 181. Where to Place Bust-Dart Points: How far from the bust point should a bust dart end?
"Foolproof Skirt Fitting." Threads July 2015, Number 179.
"Methods to Master: Five Patternmaking Skills." Sew News Aug/Sept 2014.
Download PDF.
"Expert Solutions for Sleeve Fitting." Sew News Oct/Nov 2013.
"Planning to Make Your Own Wedding Gown: What to know before you embark on the journey." Vogue Patterns Jun. 2013, Number 313.
"Question and Answer." Threads May 2013, Number 166. Help for Rounded Shoulders: How do I take out the fullness in the back neckline?
"The Best of Threads Fitting." Threads Spring 2013. The Perfect Sleeve: Start with two simple measurements and correct the sleeve cap.
"Question and Answer." Threads Jan. 2013, Number 164. Fit Wide Short Sleeves for a Thin Arm: Why do patternmakers make sleeves so wide?
"Finding Satisfaction in Alterations." Perspectives Fall 2012.
"Custom Clothing and Other Business Opportunities." Perspectives April 2012.
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. Minneapolis: Creative Publishing International, 2012. A comprehensive foundational text for learning to fit garments using muslins.
"Pressing for Shape." Threads May 2011, Number 154.Using an iron to mold seams and fabric.
"Question and Answer." Threads Jan. 2011, Number 152. How do I make a straight-cut blouse pattern more fitted in the bust? Add a bust dart.
"Question and Answer." Threads Jul. 2010, Number 149. How do I sew couture-quality seams on silk and viscose jersey fabric? Finishes for Fine Knit Seams.
"Secrets for Sewing Knits." PatternReview.com 1,000 Clever Sewing Shortcuts & Tips: Top-Rated Favorites from Sewing Fans and Master Teachers. Creative Publishing: Quayside, 2010.
Writing Prior to 2010
"Chiseled Chic." Threads Nov. 2009, Number 145. Four designers share their approach to adding dimension and shape to a garment.
"Blue on Blue Knit Evening Gown." Threads May 2009, Number 141. Featured after winning Most Successful Overall in the Threads/ASDP Fluid Fabrics Challenge.
"The Inside Scoop on Hollywood Waists." Threads May 2008, Number 136. Last year, waistlines were low. This year, they're up, up,up!
"Question and Answer." Threads Jan. 2007, Number 128. Question on adapting patterns to compensate for lack of stretch in a knit fabric.
"Silk Organza: Light-Weight "Workhorse"." Sew-lutions Aug. 2006.
"Sewing with White and Off-White Fabrics." Sew-lutions Jul. 2006.
"Fabric Colors and Skin Tones." Sew-lutions May. 2006.
"Choosing the Best "White" Color." Sew-lutions Apr. 2006.
"Fashion and Color Trends for Spring/Summer 2006." Sew-lutions Mar. 2006.
"Tips for Stitching Set-In Sleeves." Sew-lutions Feb. 2006.
"Measuring the Amount of Ease in a Sleeve Cap: How to "Walk" a Sleeve Pattern." Sew-lutions Jan. 2006.
"Set-in Sleeves." Sew-lutions Dec. 2005.
"Sewing Basics: Factors to Consider when Laying Out a Pattern." Cranston Village Nov. 2005.
"Working with Napped and Piled Fabrics - Sewing Tips." Sew-lutions Nov. 2005.
"Working with Napped and Piled Fabrics." Sew-lutions Nov. 2005.
"Sewing Basics: Accuracy and Control." Cranston Village Sept. 2005.
"Fall/Winter 2005/06 Fashion and Color Trends." Sew-lutions Sept. 2005.
"Sewing Points and Outward Curves." Cranston Village Aug. 2005.
"Sewing Basics: Helpful Stitching Techniques." Cranston Village Jul. 2005.
"Working with Slippery Fabrics." Cranston Village Jul. 2005.
"Silk Fabrics - Terminology." Sew-lutions Jun. 2005.
"Sewing Basics: Fabric Grainline." Cranston Village May 2005.
"Spring/Summer 2005 Fashion and Color Trends." Sew-lutions May 2005.
"How to Fit a Perfect Sleeve." Threads May 2005, Number 118. It all starts with two simple measurements and some adjusting of the sleeve cap.
"To Get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice." Threads Mar. 2005, Number 117. Use a muslin to adjust bust, back, and shoulder, and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
"Sewing Basics: Cutting Tools and Tips." Cranston Village Mar. 2005.
"Reduce Bulk in Your Sewing Projects for Better Results - Part II: Planning Projects and Garments." Sew-lutions Mar. 2005.
"Reduce Bulk in Your Sewing Projects for Better Results - Part I: Controlling Seam Allowances." Sew-lutions Feb. 2005.
"Sewing Basics: Needles and Threads." Cranston Village Jan. 2005.
"Fleece: Sewing Tips." Sew-lutions Dec. 2004.
"Fleece: What's this fabric all about?" Sew-lutions Nov. 2004.
"Difficult Sewing Situations: Hand Basting Can Save the Day!." Sew-lutions Oct. 2004.
"Fall 2004/Winter 2005 Fashion Trends." Sew-lutions Sept. 2004.
"The Relationship Between Button Size & Buttonhole Placement." Sew-lutions Aug. 2004.
"Unraveling Textile Terminology - Part II." Sew-lutions Jul. 2004.
"Exploring Chinese Silk-Faced Brocades." Threads Jul. 2004, Number 113. These dressy Asian fabrics offer a lot of everyday western style.
"Classic Hand-Sewn Hems." Cranston Village July 2004.
"Playing with Design: Waistlines." Threads May 2004, Number 112. Add panache to skirts and pants by enhancing the waistband or facing.
"Unraveling Textile Terminology - Part I." Sew-lutions May 2004.
"Fashion Trends for Spring and Summer 2004 - Fresh, Feminine, and Fun." Sew-lutionsApr. 2004.
"Easy Tip for Great-Looking Machine Buttonholes." Sew-lutions Mar. 2004.
"Tube Scarf." Sew-lutions Feb. 2004.
"Straight-of-Grain Waistband Made Easy." Cranston Village April 2004.
"Sit Down & Get Ready to Sew." Sew-lutions Jan. 2004.
"Playing with Design: Straight Skirts." Threads Jan. 2004, Number 110.Two simple strategies for using flaps of fabric to very a basic skirt pattern.
"Fitting a Straight Skirt." Threads Jan. 2004, Number 110. Featured Fitting column.
"Machine Sewing: Choosing the best way to secure first and last stitches." Sew-lutionsDec. 2003.
"Facings." Cranston Village Nov. 2003.
"Sewing Beautiful Darts." Sew-lutions Nov. 2003.
"Fashion, Fabric, and Color Trends for Fall 2003/Winter 2004." Sew-lutions Oct. 2003.
"Facings Made Easy." Threads Sept. 2003, Number 108. Featured Basics column.
"Pressing: An Essential Step when Sewing Apparel." Cranston Village Sept. 2003.
"What Size Pattern Should I Buy?" Sew-lutions Sept. 2003.
"The World of Interfacing." Cranston Village Aug. 2003.
"Pressing - Why is it so Important?" Sew-lutions Aug. 2003.
"Dressing with Summertime Fashions." Sew-lutions Jul. 2003.
"Sewing Summer Apparel." Cranston Village Jun. 2003.
"Grainline - Why is it so important?" Sew-lutions Jun. 2003
"Neckline Finishes for Knits." Threads May 2003, Number 106. Creating smooth, professional-looking edges that stretch. View online extras: neckline binding for knits video, and turtleneck finish for knits video.
"Easy Add-on Embellishments for Throw Pillows." Sew-lutions May 2003.
"Keeping Sewing Projects Organized." Sew-lutions Apr. 2003.
"Pattern Envelopes - What Does All That Information Mean?" Sew-lutions Mar. 2003.
"Sewing by Hand: The Catch Stitch." Sew-lutions Feb. 2003.
"Spring 2003 Fashion Trends." Sew-lutions Jan. 2003.
"Sewing Jackets from Knits." Threads Mar. 2002, Number 99. A fitted jacket made in a knit fabric offers both style and comfort.
"Know Your Knits." Threads Nov. 2001, Number 97. This guide to the confusing world of knit fabrics will help you select a knit with confidence.
THREADS editors. "Exploring Design! The RS/WS Wool Challenge." Threads Nov. 2001, Number 97. Sarah contributed the long vest featured in the article.
Jenab, Blossom, and Kate Rittenhouse. "Copying Complex Garments." Threads Jan. 2001, Number 92. Sarah contributed the blue silk jacket featured in the article.
Betzina, Sandra, and THREADS editors. "Mohair for the Millennium." Threads Nov. 2000, Number 91. Sarah contributed the mohair dress featured in the article.
"Fabric Shopping With a Pro." Threads Sept. 2000, Number 90. Simplify making decisions at the fabric store by systematically comparing swatches.
"Exploring Design: THREADS Design Challenge IV." Threads Jul. 2000, Number 89. Sarah was one of three designers asked to participate in Design Challenge IV.
"Oops! Not Enough Fabric?." Threads May 2000, Number 88. Keep a cool head and try these strategies to save the day.
Lee, Linda. "Convertable Garments." Threads May 2000, Number 88. Sarah contributed the Java Jacket with removable sleeves.
"Tips: Magnificent Miters." Threads Nov. 1999, Number 85. How to create beautifully mitered corners.
"Sheers See the Light of Day." Threads Sept. 1999, Number 84. Transparent fabrics step off the dance floor and become wardrobe workhorses.
"Draft Your Own Sarong Pants." (cover photo) Threads Jul. 1999, Number 83. Combine the drape of a sarong skirt with the utility of pants.
"'Start With A Square' Hat Challenge" Threads May 1999, Number 82.Invited to submit a hat (photo in article).
"Wool Gauze: Featherweight and Fabulous." Threads Mar. 1999, Number 81.It has all the virtues of wool, drapes like a dream, and can be worn year-round.
"Question and Answer." Threads Nov. 1998, Number 79.Fitting gaping necklines.
"What Makes 'Basic' Patterns Basic?" Threads Sept. 1998, Number 78.With slightly varied details and fitting tweaks, a single basic pattern suits almost any body type.