Are you frustrated with sewing because garment patterns don’t seem to work for you? Do you wonder why the depiction of a garment on a pattern envelope often bears little resemblance to the way the sewn garment looks on you? Have you tried altering patterns but gotten mixed results?

This three-day class will give you the opportunity to explore and gain an understanding of the basic principles of patternmaking. We will discuss ways to tell if a particular commercial pattern will be a good starting point to achieve the results you desire. Your mock-ups will be our laboratory: I will fit your mock-ups; we will discuss how to accurately translate pin markings and other notations back to your pattern tissue; we’ll discuss why some fitting adjustments can’t be translated into the tissue; and you will develop an understanding of what comprises good patternmaking techniques. The first part of the morning will be devoted to lecture and discussion, then I will begin fitting. Afternoons will give you time for hands-on work, during which I will work with you individually.

You will receive a supply list and instructions on how to prepare your muslins (or mock-ups) approximately one month before the class. Participants can expect to leave class with several relatively easy garments fit and the patterns perfected. Please feel free to contact me if you have questions regarding the types of patterns on which you would like to work. Part of the benefit of being in a class setting is acquiring a broader understanding of patternmaking by observing the other class participants work on their projects.

I recommend choosing several simple garments (straight skirt, blouse with side bust darts, princess line dress, princess line jacket) rather than a complicated garment design, because you will be able to concentrate on patternmaking rather than getting too involved with complex design and fitting issues. If you wish to work on pants, I have a set of pants already mocked-up from Joyce Murphy’s excellent pants pattern from waist: 26-1/2”/hip: 35” to waist: 56”/hip: 63”. Feel free to find the pants size that’s best for you for your initial fitting, copy the pattern, and then perfect your pattern.

Following is an outline of how we’ll spend our days:

Early Morning: An introduction to patternmaking: what the process is; equipment needed; terminology; and the interrelationship between fit and patternmaking. We will also explore how to assess a pattern; the difference between fitting ease and design ease; tips on how not to get confused when making multiple pattern changes; and the importance of conceptualizing a project.

Remainder of Morning and Afternoon: I will begin fitting. Part of the benefit of being in a class setting is observing others being fit. You will gain a lot of information vicariously by watching this process. I will discuss in some detail what each participant should do in order to translate the fitting marks and notations to her pattern. Everyone can be expected to have one garment fit the first day.

Early Morning: A discussion of the types of pattern changes we encountered the day before. We will also discuss learning how to blend curves; the importance of using a curved ruler to reflect what you, as a designer, want to achieve; the steps involved in truing a pattern, including the number of pivot points; and several ways to “walk” a pattern.

Remainder of Morning and Afternoon: I will continue fitting and working with you individually on your pattern tissues. During this time, we will gather around to learn from anyone who has an interesting patternmaking problem or solution.

Early Morning: Further discussion of pattern changes we encountered the day before. We will concentrate on how your patternmaking can enhance the overall design concept of your garment, and how to conceptualize your design so that it can be supported by your patternmaking.

Remainder of Morning and Afternoon: More fitting and pattern work. I will work with you individually on your patterns, and I will make sure that you know the steps you need to take in order to complete the patterns on which you’ve been working during class.

Late Afternoon: A GROUP ASSESSMENT OF PROJECTS AND A FAREWELL TEA

There are a number of hotels in the Hunt Valley area. Please visit the Accommodations page for a list. If you will not have a car, some of the Hunt Valley hotels have courtesy van service, and I can also help out with getting you to and from your hotel. There are plenty of nearby restaurants and two grocery stores that have a variety of prepared food.

A table and chair will be provided for each person, and pressing equipment and cutting tables will be provided for all to share. Two weights of pattern-making paper are available at a nominal fee. You will need to bring your sewing machine, sewing tools, a light for your individual work area, drafting rulers, and mock-up fabric if you wish to fine tune your fit. About a month before class, I will send you a detailed supply list.

For more information and questions, please feel free to get in touch with me: